Category: Uncategorized

Palestine of Jesus 2014 – Day Fourteen

Today the focus of the Palestine of Jesus course has been on the events of Holy Week, as we visited several sites associated with Gospel traditions from the final days of Jesus. As I write this blog the events from this morning seem a long time ago, as we are currently experiencing an upsurge in the violence between Israel and Hamas, with air raid sirens sounding across several Israeli towns—including Jerusalem and Tel Aviv.

Meanwhile, back on the schedule …

We began the day with a visit to the Mosque that celebrates the Ascension of Jesus. This mosque is on the site of an earlier Byzantine Church, and some of the original columns of the open structure (which had no roof) can still be seen:

From the Chapel of the Ascension we continued our exploration of holy sites on Mt Olives by going to the Church of the Pater Noster (that celebrates Jesus as a prophetic teacher, in this case the Lord’s Prayer) and the Palm Sunday Church at Bethpage:

We then walked down the slope of Mt Olives towards the Kidron valley and the Old City:

We spent some time at the iconic Dominus Flevit church with its wonderful views across to the Dome of the Rock:

Finally we went down to the Church of All Nations in Gethsemane that commemorates the agony of Jesus and his arrest:

In the afternoon we visited the traditional site of the Last Supper and Pentecost. This is one of the most hotly contested sites in this city, as a Jewish nationalist organisation has occupied the lower level with its ‘Tomb of David’ and is destroying the material evidence of many centuries of Islamic presence in the building. For our part, the Cenaculum is a large 14C Gothic structure, that has been venerated for centuries but has little claim to authenticity—not least because the events commemorated are themselves most likely fictional. Clearly, such questions do not deter the crowds.

I especially like this detail of a mother pelican feeding her young with her own flesh and blood—a nice Eucharistic touch.

After leaving the Mt Zion area we walked a short distance down the hill to the modern church of St Peter in Gallicantu that commemorates the trial of Jesus and his denial by Peter (‘before the cock crowed’). This is another impressive modern Catholic church, built on the remains of an earlier Byzantine or Crusader church, and offers some unusual angles on the Old City and the nearby Palestinian neighbourhoods.

On the way back to the College I stopped by my friend Ibrahim’s store in Nablus Road, and we went through some of his coins that were for sale. To my single coin from Year Two of the Jewish Revolt (ca 67/68 CE), purchased yesterday, I have now added these three coins:

As the day drew to a close we learned that Israel had called up 40,000 army reserves to supplement its significant standing army in preparation for an invasion of Gaza. IDF planes have been bombing Gaza throughout the day, while rockets continued to be fired from Gaza into southern Israel. By early evening the government had ordered public bomb shelters to be opened, and we were soon given our first taste of an air raid siren. We assume the night will mostly pass without significant incidents, and look forward to our final day of the course tomorrow.

9 July 2014
Palestine of Jesus 2014 – Day Thirteen

This morning the participants in our Palestine of Jesus course had an extended opportunity to soak up the special places along the NW shore of the Sea of Galilee. We had a late checkout from our rooms at the Pilgerhaus, and people were able to visit the nearby Benedictine monastery or walk along the shore to Capernaum. Apart from the ubiquitous gum trees, this is about as close to ‘walking in the footsteps of Jesus’ as anyone could hope to experience.

After a light lunch at Tabgha, the course went to Mt Tabor for an extended visit to reflect on the Transfiguration traditions. They then returned to Jerusalem by bus, arriving around 5.30pm.

While this was happening, I left early so that I could pick up Clare from Ginosar and drop her to some friends at Tel Aviv University for a few days, before returning my rental car to the Avis service centre in King David Street. On the way we detoured via Ramat Hasharon, so that we could enjoy a coffee with Hanan Shafir, the dig photographer at Bethsaida.

As I walked back to the College via the Mamilla Center and the Old City, everything seemed pretty calm and there were no unusual security measures. On the way I treated myself to an ancient coin, using some funds given to me for that purpose by Clare and Lizzie at Christmas time. My wee treasure is a prutah (small bronze coin) issued by the rebel Jewish government in the second year of the Great War with Rome (66/73 CE).

Since then the security situation seems to have deteriorated somewhat. There are reports of rockets fired from Gaza towards towns in central Israel, and there are helicopters circling over the Old City and the Arab neighbourhoods. It is yet to be seen if this is simply a precautionary measure, or whether we are going to see a repeat of the civil unrest experienced in Arab towns throughout Israel since the murder of a 16 year old Arab by Jewish nationalists last week.

8 July 2014
Palestine of Jesus 2014 – Day Twelve

Today was a time to focus on the Galilean context of the ministry of Jesus, exploring the social and political dynamics of the region in his time and reflecting on the implications of that for our own ministries now.

We began the day with a visit to Bethsaida. We reached the site quite early (not long after 8.00am) so that we could avoid the worst of the heat. It was a delight for me to take my new friends around the site, drawing attention to the some of the more interesting aspects of our work. I am sure for them the opportunity to visit the site with one of the people involved in its operations, and a few past volunteers to boot, added greatly to the value of the visit.

Here is a rare angle on Area T (sans tarps), taken from the higher position usually occupied by the sifters from Area A.

We left Bethsaida and headed north to Banias, arriving there around 10.30am. That gave us plenty of time to reflect on the biblical significance of the site, to visit the Pan grotto and also to explore the nearby palace of Agrippa II. We managed all of that in less than 90 minutes, and once again avoided the hottest part of the day.

We made good time back south to Migdal where we enjoyed yet another generous Palestinian meal, before going to Ginosar to visit the Galilee Boat in the Beit Allon Museum and then take a short cruise on the lake.

By 4.00pm we were back at the Pilgerhaus, with time to relax before a lakeside Eucharist and dinner. A gentle day, and a world away from the tensions in Jerusalem, as well as the riots that have now spread to several Palestinian towns in northern Israel.

7 July 2014
Palestine of Jesus 2014 – Day Eleven

The SGC Palestine of Jesus course relocated from Jerusalem to the Galilee today. This was always planned at this point in the schedule, but the move was also a good opportunity to move away from the tensions and security concerns in Jerusalem and the south of the country.

After travelling from Jerusalem, the morning was spent at Capernaum and some nearby lakeside holy places such as the Church of the Primacy at Tagbha. Around 1.00pm the bus arrived in Tiberias so that we could have lunch at the ‘Hermitage’ restaurant in the Russian Orthodox centre. I rejoined the group at this stage after an absence of three days.

After lunch we had planned to visit Kursi and Bethsaida, but it was far too hot for such visits to outdoor sites this afternoon. Insytead, we made some minor changes to the schedule, leaving Bethsaida for tomorrow morning (on our way north to Banias) and going to the nearby Church of the Beatitudes after lunch.

Following their visit to Mt Beautitdes the group checked into the very comfortable facilities of the Pilgerhaus at Tabgha, although a few hardy souls decided to walk down the hill in the blazing sun. The remainder of the afternoon was occupied with sleeping and swimming, and offered a very pleasant respite after the tensions of the past few days in Jerusalem.

6 July 2014
Palestine of Jesus 2014 – Day Four
The focus of the Palestine of Jesus course today was on Jesus and John the Baptist, and especially on the significance of their presence in the Judean wilderness. This small desert (approximately 1,500 square km) has been created by the rain shadow effect as moist winds from the Mediterranean Sea tend to have dropped their rain on the western side of the mountains.
- BiblePlaces.com has an excellent set of online photographs from the Judean wilderness.
After a briefing on the physical and theological significance of the Jordan River, Jericho and the ‘wilderness’, the class set out by bus for the Baptism site on the Jordan River. After lunch in Jericho, and an opportunity to stop briefly at a large sycamore tree that commemorates the encounter of Jesus and Zaccheus, the group went to a location to view the Monastery of the Temptation. On the way back to Jerusalem there was a chance to view the Wadi Qilt, the ancient road between Jerusalem and Jericho.

I chose to stay back at the College today and attend to my growing set of emails. With the temperatures in the mid-40s that proved to be a good move.

I did venture out around lunch time so I could wander down to the Damascus Gate and buy some freshly baked bread from a local shop.
29 June 2014
Palestine of Jesus 2014 – Day Two

Today the course at St George’s College in Jerusalem really swung into gear. We have about 33 people on the program, plus about 4 staff. I am listed as a ‘Guest Scholar’ this year and will be responsible for a couple of the days during the program. It is good to see such a strong number of enrolments despite all the political uncertainty in the region.

After sitting for our group photograph at 8.30am, we went into a series of meetings with College staff, including an introduction to the Library. This was presented by Simone Qumri, who I met on my very first Palestine of Jesus course back in June 1990 and who first taught me to write my name in Arabic. Friendships that endure for many years are such a blessing. After all these years, I still think of Simone as I initial documents with the Arabic letter jiim as she taught me to write it.

After morning tea break we had a lecture on pilgrimage in the Holy Land, concluding with an overview of the historical development of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This was in preparation for a visit to the church later this afternoon, and I think the new course director has made a wise move in placing this visit so early in the program. This is, after all, the most significant church for Christianity and the reason for so much of the conflict around this holy city. No doubt many of us will make repeat visits individually or with friends before the course returns here as we walk the Via Dolorosa on the morning of the last day.

Following lunch we went to Mt Olives for an overview of the Old City and an explanation of the topography.

The pickpockets are especially bad this year, and I fell victim to one of them myself. As it happened I sensed what had happened and challenged the thief, before chasing him and demanding he return the stolen cash so deftly removed from the wallet in my hand. I suspect he was not used to being grabbed by an angry Westerner yelling at him in Arabic, so he threw the money on the ground—all the while protesting that he had not taken it. Hmmm … (Note to self: Learn some good Arabic swear words for future use in such circumstances!)

Meanwhile, the view of the Old City was excellent!

After leaving Mt Olives we went by bus to the Jaffa Gate and from there we walked to the Holy Sepulchre. As we moved about the complex structure, Rodney Aist gave a masterful introduction to the church, while leaving time for people to reflect on their first encounter with this holiest of holy places.

27 June 2014